Exploring The Nordic Vibes and Olympic Legacy of Hafjell and Kvitfjell Ski Resorts

Lillehammer at a Glance

My recent return to the charming and picturesque Norwegian town of Lillehammer quickly evoked indelible memories from the 1994 Winter Olympics, two sun-drenched, but frigid, and memorable weeks that are still fondly remembered among the best Winter Games ever.

Thirty-two years after welcoming the world, the Lillehammer region’s ski resorts, Hafjell and Kvitfjell, offer unique, inviting, and authentic mountain experiences, shaped by the legacy of the Lillehammer 1994 Winter Games. Both are thriving, diverse, world-class ski destinations nestled in Norway’s Gudbrandsdalen Valley, north of Oslo. 

Lillehammer, with its lively Storgata pedestrian street and captivating views of frozen Lake Mjøsa below, is an ideal base for skiers, whether alpine or cross-country. Outdoor sports gear and clothing shopping is also top-notch.

Cold and invigorating Nordic weather guarantees reliable skiing and snow conditions across a long season on the family-friendly slopes in Hafjell and the knee-jarring Olympiabakken piste in Kvitfjell, the run on which American downhiller Tommy Moe stunned the favored Norwegians, charging to Olympic downhill gold and super-G silver over three decades ago.

Sharing the Lillehammer region and surrounding Scandinavian Mountains, Hafjell is situated about a 20-minute drive north of the 1994 Olympic town, while Kvitfjell is roughly an additional 45 minutes north on the E6 motorway.

Lillehammer can easily be reached via a scenic 90-minute train ride from Oslo’s Lufthavn Airport or city center. Frequent buses connect Lillehammer and Hafjell during the winter months, while a car is better suited to access Kvitfjell. 

Norway’s rolling Scandinavian Mountains certainly don’t tower above like the Alps of Central Europe, but its ski resorts are idyllic, with friendly vibes and offering a slice of Nordic ambiance and culture. The cold northerly temperatures are ideal for reliable, firm, and hard-packed snow conditions well into the spring season. 

Cruising intermediate trails past traditional Norwegian cabins dotting the mountainside, especially during mesmerizing ‘Golden Hour’ late in the afternoon, is a local experience not to be missed. Kvitfjell resort and nearby Ringebu are located at nearly 62 degrees north latitude, offering stunning, sunny skiing days that seem to last forever. 

Norway is often viewed as a model of modern prosperity with a sustainable vision, and the two ever-evolving, smart ski areas are certainly representative of these characteristics.

Exploring Kvitfjell’s Three Mountainsides

Snow reliable Kvitfjell or the ‘White Mountain’ Ski Resort is comprised of three distinct mountainsides, offering between 35-39 kilometers of trails with 14 lifts. The resort’s East side, where the 1994 Olympic piste cuts through, has stimulating, steep, and lengthy pistes. Kvitfjell West, renowned for its plethora of sunshine, and the Varden area directly across, are defined by their selection of winding cruiser trails and other gentler slopes.

The mystical “Powder Forest” provides off-piste alternatives and blissful glade skiing, meandering through frosty trees. It feels as if one is making turns on another planet. 

My March trip was highlighted by seeing the world’s premiere speed skiers, notably Swiss star Marco Odermatt, Italian fan favorite Dominik Paris, Olympic downhill champion Breezy Johnson, and ski racer/snowboarder Ester Ledecka launching off the revered Russi jump. Successful landings set up navigating a series of tight curves next approaching the lower section of the course, and naturally, the Tommy Moe Jump.

Later that afternoon, the Kvitfjell Express swiftly took me to the top of the Norwegian mountain and its 1,054-meter summit. I quickly proceeded past the old downhill start house and chattered my way down the slick and dicey upper section of the Olympic piste.

A bumpy, exhausting, and thrilling experience, no doubt, all while reminiscing about Moe’s scintillating gold-medal-winning run in a dreamy winter wonderland setting and a sea of Norwegian flags in the finish area.

A vigorous day at Kvitfjell is certainly not complete without a stop at the resort’s popular on-mountain watering hole and old log cabin Koia.

From its outdoor fire pits and comfy outdoor lounge chairs to its cozy and intricately decorated interior, locals and visitors alike gather for beverage-induced afternoons and Après-ski frivolity. Flames in a stone fireplace quickly warm the mood.

The bar’s rafters are adorned with vintage skis and snowboards, Norwegian flags, colorful signs, classic snow sports memorabilia, and even Mikaela Shiffrin’s speed suit from the 2023 World Cup races.

Choose from refreshing IPAs and other draft beers while munching on spicy chorizo, traditional Norwegian sausages, and other tasty bar food. For those who want to truly immerse themselves in Norwegian culture, a shot of clear Aquavit — the Norwegian ‘Water of Life’ — will make one feel like an invincible Norwegian Viking.

You won’t be able to help but wish your ski buddies a happy Norwegian Skaaallllll! (Cheers)

The Quintessential Norwegian Ski Experience with Aksel Lund Svindal

A few days after my Olympic-sized descent, I was fortunate to catch up with Norwegian alpine skiing legend and 2018 Olympic downhill champion Aksel Lund Svindal.

The friendly ski racer competed in 25 World Cup speed races in Kvitfjell, while nabbing one super-G victory and nine podiums over his illustrious 16-year career. The 43-year-old retired racer is also a longtime resident of the area.

Svindal described what appeals to him most about the Norwegian ski experience and how it varies from Europe’s Alps.

“There is not as much vertical or runs as the biggest European resorts, but there’s some good skiing to be found,” Svindal tells POWDER Magazine. “What’s kind of cool is that there’s lots of lodging that is 100% ski in and ski out. We don’t have huge villages at the bases, but conversely, many accommodations higher up on the mountain.

“I have a cabin in Kvitfjell at the top station of the chairlift, which is very unusual for ski resorts. Access is by gondola, and there is also a road, so you have villages high up on the mountain, so you click into your equipment directly outside your door, and also go ski touring.

“We also see amazing sunrises and sunsets up there, so that’s the aspect that I enjoy most, living high in these mountains.”

Svindal expanded upon Kvitfjell’s variety of terrain.

“It’s steep and challenging down the front side which was purely created for the downhill track and 1994 Olympics, and then they added runs to that. Then you can drop down on the west side, and its family-friendly and much easier with beautiful sun.

“Because our climate can be harsh, there’s less trees up high which provides for open terrain and excellent free skiing,” says the Norwegian icon.

What advice does the Olympic champion have for accomplished skiers?

“I recommend the (Olympic) downhill slope, which is nicely groomed, top to bottom, when there is no racing,” he says. “One of my favorite things is to go up on the first lift, push out of the downhill start when there’s no people, and just arc big GS turns, top to bottom down the course. There’s great terrain and challenge, so it’s the closest thing around to riding a roller coaster.”

For those seeking slower speeds, the Kvitfjell vicinity offers a staggering 600 kilometers of cross-country trails. Cap off an exhausting day with fine dining at the Prepperiet restaurant, located in the spacious on-mountain Gudbrandsgaard Hotel. Try the sirloin of Venison or any of the exquisite fish dishes prepared with a Nordic twist.

Family Friendly Slopes of Hafjell and Legendary Torch Man

Hafjell Alpine Resort and village is just 15 kilometers north of  Lillehammer, a ski area that attracts a larger international crowd than Kvitfjell. 

Skiers are immediately drawn to the iconic Torch Man in the distance across the valley’s Gudbrandsdalslågen River. Created for the 1994 Winter Games to honor Norwegian Olympic Torch Bearers, the whimsical character is roughly 360 meters in height, carved into the forested mountainside.

Thirty-two years onward, Torch Man still appears ready to run, but certainly needs a spruce up, something that locals inform me will happen soon.

Hafjell resident PK Hunder opened the 2017 X Games by launching an inspiring first descent down Torch Man, intrepidly navigating logs, stumps, rocks, and other natural obstacles.

Back across the valley, less daring Hafjell skiers will discover a wide-ranging spectrum of slopes particularly conducive for families, but also more advanced runs including the heart-thumping Olympic GS and slalom trail Olympia-loypa, in addition to three terrain parks.

Hafjell has a vertical drop of 864 meters (2,800 ft.) with 19 lifts. The ski area ascends to the Hafjelltoppen summit at 1059 meters. Night skiing is also an option.

I met and questioned the Øyer Municipality mayor, Anne Marie Sveipe, and she informed me that Norway’s joyful and spirited Olympic Winter Games were a game-changer for visibility, growth, ski tourism, and regional development.

“The short answer is the Olympics meant everything,” Sveipe told POWDER Magazine, during March’s World Cup Alpine Finals. “If the Olympics had not come to this area, we wouldn’t have anything, this development of tourism, I think.

“We’ve taken care of the legacy from the Olympics, using the name and venues for sports events frequently, and big World Cups, especially in Kvitfjell, Hafjell, and Lillehammer. We work as a region to make all of this happen, so yes, the Olympics meant everything.”

Sveipe also emphasized the major advantages for skiers and recreational visitors considering the region’s northerly climate.

“We have stable and wonderful winters, lots of snow,” Sveipe says. “This winter was cold, threre was snow on the trees and we believe we’ll have these stable winters for a long time. We also have an identity that is very unique and very down to earth.”

Sveipe notes that she is encouraging new discussions about the Lillehammer region hosting the Winter Olympics again. Additionally, all roads and plans appear on course for further expansion of the ski resorts and local infrastructure, while housing development projects ambitiously continue.

Joining Kvitfjell and Hafjell ski areas is the Oppdal Ski Center, the third resort in the region falling under the umbrella of the Alpinco company, Norway’s largest ski resort provider. Oppdal’s mountains deliver 56 kilometers (34 miles) of alpine slopes with most of its 29 pistes above treeline.

Beware: The World’s Largest Troll is Watching

Hafjell recreational skiers not only feel the imposing presence of Torch Man, but also another colorful character appearing to be judging everyone’s turns: the world’s tallest troll, towering at least four stories in height.

The Hunderfossen Troll sits crouched down, frozen in thought, on the opposite side of the Gudbrandsdalen Valley river, a quirky, misunderstood, and larger-than-life figure guarding the Hunderfossen Winter Park.

On a day off from skiing, bring the family to the enchanting Norwegian park with its numerous ice sculptures and fun-filled attractions. One is quickly transported into a Norwegian fairytale, marveling at the cast of friendly and not-so-friendly characters that are part of the traditional folklore.

For warm-blooded visitors with an adventurous spirit and a will to boldly experience a magical and frosty Norwegian night, an overnight stay at the Hunderfossen Snow Hotel is highly recommended. Beds of Reindeer skins and warm sleeping bags keep guests toasty all night. Satellite TV and high-speed WiFi are not essential.

I had hoped to stay there in mid-March, but well, at that time the hotel was melting like gelato in searing August heat. No Norwegian worries, though, planning a return visit next winter.

Embracing ‘Friluftsliv’ 

Adventurous skiers and outdoor enthusiasts who venture into Norway’s enchanting forests, snowy mountains, and vast countryside are bound to learn about and feel the country’s ‘Friluftsliv’ (pronounced free-loofts-liv) experience. 

The word literally translates to “free-air life” and is a Norwegian cultural philosophy that emphasizes cherishing outdoor life and connecting with nature for mental and physical health and well-being. Deeply ingrained in Norway’s national identity, it encourages year-round immersion in nature.

After a thoroughly enjoyable and nostalgic week in the Lillehammer region and on the slopes of its two Olympic ski resorts, whether it will be for the good vibes, invigorating mountain air, Olympic spirit, winter sports passion, tasty and hearty food, cozy log cabins, Friluftsliv philosophy, or most likely some combination of all, I shall return. 

Tussen Takk Lillehammer!

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