The Swiss Resort Where Discretion Is Everything
“If you want to be seen, go to St Moritz. If you don’t, go to Pontresina,” said Karolina Mazur with a conspiratorial wink.
She should know. Mazur is the wonderfully named experience curator for the luxury hotel group which comprises the Kulm Hotel in St Moritz and the Grand Hotel Kronenhof in nearby Pontresina.
In both resorts you see Moncler-sporting couples with perfect hair, smiles and children but the similarity ends there. St Moritz is known as being a magnet for royalty (the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh and Greece’s Queen Anne-Marie are recent visitors), billionaires and celebs like Kate Moss and George Clooney. Pontresina has a similar clientele but works more like a Swiss bank account – discretion is everything and no one is ever going to tell you much about who goes and what they get up to when they are there. Mazur for one is not telling.
Pontresina sits at the confluence of the Bernina and Roseg valleys in Switzerland’s Upper Engadine. Tourism began here in the 19th century when British mountaineers came in summer to climb the peaks of the Bernina Massif.
Pontresina reflects that early heritage. There are quaint houses from the Belle Epoque and many of the walls of the Engadin buildings are decorated with sgraffito, where the top layer of plaster is selectively removed to create a contrasting, intricate design. One such building is the Chesa Campell, built in 1740, whose walls are adorned by sgraffito swirls and diamonds. Another is the Chesa Delnon, which now houses the local museum (worth a visit for its exhibits on alpinism).
These days, it is the winter season that is peak tourist season.
Pontresina itself has no direct access to the slopes. Heading deeper into the Val Bernina towards the Italian border brings you to the Diavolezza-Lagalb ski area. Take the cable car up to the top for a panorama of the Piz Palü and Piz Bernina peaks. 2026 marks the 70th anniversary of the installation of the first cable car here. The Diavolezza refers to a flame-haired mountain nymph who would lure unwary hunters to their deaths.
This is glacier territory. From the restaurant at the top, you ski down some steep sections to the glacial moraine and past the seracs. The descent to the Morteratsch train station is less challenging and you can celebrate your escape from the clutches of Diavolezza on the sun terrace of the Hotel Morteratsch restaurant at the bottom. Once a month in winter, the cable car stays open into the evening for what is called Glüna Plaina, the local Romansh name for full moon, when you can ski down by moonlight. The Berghaus restaurant remains open for dinner but you need to buy a separate evening ticket for this experience.
In the other direction, Pontresina is a ten-minute train or car ride to Celerina or St Moritz, where you can access the 155 kilometres of slopes of the Corviglia area, renowned for its well-groomed intermediate terrain. Head up to Fuorcla Grischa just below 3000 metres and take the succession of runs Schlattain (17), Princess (21) and Saluver (25) down to Celerina for the classic example of what this area typically offers. If you want to challenge yourself, the 9km long Hahnsensee black run from Giand’Alva in the Corvatsch area is worth a ski. It’s a mix of steep, open terrain and forest skiing with views of the lakes. From the end of the run, you need to get public transport to get back on the lift network.
If downhill is not your thing, Pontresina is one of the best destinations for cross-country skiers in Switzerland. There are more than 200km of trails locally stretching along the Roneg, Bernina and Upper Engadine valleys. Pontresina has a dedicated cross-country skiing centre in the youth hostel next to the railway station, offering lessons, gear rental and overnight storage (including shoe drying). The centre has a name that will get those who should know better at their age sniggering but modesty forbids here.
As you walk through the town you can’t help but notice it is bisected by the Ova da Bernina gorge. To get a bird’s eye view you can take the easily accessible skywalk that puts you right in the tree canopy and allows you to hover above the gorge and a frozen waterfall.
As you would expect from the people who visit, Pontresina has more than its fair share of upmarket hotels, which could double for film locations. The Schloss Hotel has Where Eagles Dare vibes while the 1900s art nouveau Hotel Walther has high turrets and stained-glass windows and would give the Banff Springs Hotel a run for its money if they remade The Shining (except for the murders obviously).
Opposite the Walther, you might be taken aback to see the Diavolezza cable car. It doesn’t run from here though. This is a decommissioned cabin that is now has a new life as the Gondolezza restaurant in a clearing, serving fondue and raclette. You can watch its journey down the mountain to its new home in 2012 here if you’re interested.
I stayed at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof, close to the gleaming white San Niculò reformed church and overlooking the valley. The hotel first opened in 1848 as a small guesthouse but was extended greatly in the second half of the 19th century with a new main section in the Neo-Baroque style. This vibe is still evident in the hotel with the trompe l’oeil ceilings in the main dining room which depict the four seasons. The room is overlooked by a tiny minstrel’s gallery which can be reserved for a single table for private dining.
The hotel suffered between the two World Wars due to the collapse in tourism but found a role in the trade of Veltliner wine which passed through the town over the Bernina Pass from Italy (although the grape is now more associated with Austria). The Kronenhof’s cellars remain today and still house the enormous barrels that would have held the wine; the space is often used for functions. The hosting by St Moritz of the 1948 Winter Olympics reinvigorated the tourist trade.
The Kronenhof is a fine example of the Swiss obsession with good hospitality. When the manager or the maitre d’ come over to talk, they appear genuinely interested rather than as if they are fulfilling a chore. The concierge and reception teams cannot do enough for you either. I had organised a snow-shoeing trek around the region and the hotel accommodated all my timing and itinerary changes with a smile. When we got out onto the rackets, they had even thought to bring a fondue and burner and set up a hearty treat on a snow-covered table halfway around the trail. Our guide didn’t even mind when someone’s legs started hurting and we needed to head back early (won’t say who).
Pontresina is a shining example of what Switzerland does best – epic mountain landscapes, solid and reliable infrastructure that just works and a dedication to giving visitors the best experience. It was true for those tourism professionals welcoming British mountaineers in the 19th century as it is for those welcoming skiers with open arms today.
Fact box
Mark Frary stayed at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof . The best way to reach Pontresina is by train from Zurich. The journey takes around 3 hours and 40 minutes with changes at Chur and Samedan. Pontresina is one of the stations on the Bernina Express panoramic train route between Chur and Tirano in Italy, one of the world’s most beautiful scenic train rides. Pontresina makes for a good stopping off point if you want to break that journey up. A Swiss Travel Pass offers unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes (seat reservation fees apply) and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. Prices start from £229 for a three-day second-class ticket from Travel Switzerland. For more information on Switzerland, visit Switzerland Tourism or MySwitzerland on social media.
Images copyright Mark Frary.
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