Adrenaline and Afterglow in Nendaz

After flying down the highest zipline in the world, I spot a sign stating ‘slow is the new flow’.

I had been travelling at full tilt in Switzerland’s stunning Valais region after launching into a cloudless blue sky – 3,330 metres above sea level.

Hurtling along on the Mont 4 Zipline at over 100km per hour during an exhilarating 1,400m ride from Mont Fort, the last thing I wanted to do was slow down.

The captivating sights of the magnificent Matterhorn, Mont Blanc and the Grand Combin had stopped me in my tracks before I started a rapid 383m descent to the Col des Gentianes.

My breath was then well and truly taken away by the velocity I was moving at while taking in the most spectacular bird’s-eye views.

Soaring above the majestic sun-kissed mountains with my arms outstretched while travelling fast rather but by no means fluently, I felt as free as a bird – without a care in the world about where I was going to land.

Skiers resembled tiny dots on the slopes way down below, as I darted over the Tortin Glacier at an increasing rate of knots.

Before I knew it, I was at the end of the longest zipline in the Alps – on cloud nine after experiencing an alternative alpine adrenaline rush.

I had been on a high throughout my first trip to Nendaz – a charming resort nestled in the heart of the 4 Vallees – and felt like I was floating during my stay at the MAD Retreat Hotel.

It was in a yoga studio at the blissful mountain haven where the words ‘slow is the new flow’ jumped out at me, not long after I had been rocketing through the sky above the Rhone Valley.

While it may not sound like it, the MAD Retreat is the most idyllic place to put the brakes on after getting the heart rate racing while exploring Switzerland’s largest ski area.

The name derives from the owners being madly in love with nature – and it was immediately apparent why they fell for the beauty of this neck of the woods.

It was easy to make a fluent transition to a much slower pace of life at the MAD Retreat, just a short distance from the centre of the resort.

I barely moved a muscle while gazing at vistas of awe-inspiring mountain peaks from the warmth and serenity of a bubbling outdoor pool in the state-of-the-art hotel spa.

The only time it was full steam ahead during my stay at the dreamy hideaway came when I was drifting off in the hammam.

With modern, homely chalet-style accommodation and tasty vegetarian-only cuisine, the secluded sanctuary offers the perfect blend of adventure and relaxation.

I was most definitely ready to strike that balance by putting my feet up following a variety of escapades on – and above – the mountains.

There are a remarkable 410km of slopes in the winter sports wonderland of a 4 Vallees area that also includes Verbier, Bruson, La Tzoumaz, Veysonnaz and Thyon.

And skiers of all abilities have more than enough terrain to discover without having to venture far from the family-friendly resort of Nendaz.

By staying away from glitzy Verbier, your money will go much further and you can spend more time on less congested slopes.

A ‘Printse’ lift pass offers access to Nendaz, Siviez (excluding Mont Fort), Veysonnaz and Thyon, with around 220km of pistes to explore.

The lesser-known local area has snow-sure conditions from November to May and is great for beginners, with plentiful easy blue runs and a host of long reds for the more experienced.

On the other end of the scale from those who are just starting out, freeriders can fill their boots on the highest ungroomed slope in the 4 Vallees up at Mont Fort.

Thrill-seeking riders from far and wide showcase their incredible talents here in the Nendaz Freeride – renowned for being the most prestigious Freeride World Tour Qualifier event.

While I’m always up for a challenge, I was content with an off-piste activity at a very different pace after getting the blood pumping on the zipline and a range of slopes.

With the incentive of three stops for local gourmet specialities en route, a small group of us set out on the Rando’Miam – a leisurely 7.7km stroll or snowshoe hike starting and finishing in Siviez (1730m).

Our first port of call on the magical culinary tour was La Tetine, a rustic hut serving up a cheese and platter al fresco along with a warming pumpkin soup.

We adhered to the ‘slow is the new flow’ mantra after crossing a piste to head through the trees, before trudging up for lunch in the Restaurant Le Hameau de Tortin at 2050m.

After fuelling up with a tasty spaghetti bolognese, we retraced our steps in the most tranquil surroundings to sample a dessert of waffles washed down with thirst-quenching white wine outside the atmospheric Bar Le Tipi as skiers wizzed past.

Glasses were raised in front of a roaring fire in the Yetibar after a short final amble back to Siviez, before boarding the shuttle bus to Nendaz.

While it is no match for Verbier when it comes to nightlife, Nendaz is not short of options for evening entertainment.

Known as the beating heart of the 4 Vallees, here you can get the pulse racing or kick back and savour the peace and quiet of mountain life.

I felt invigorated after experiencing the best of both worlds and would return in a heartbeat.

Fact box

• Pete Thompson was a guest of Switzerland Tourism and flew from London Heathrow to Geneva with Swiss International Air Lines. Pete used the Swiss Travel Pass for the train from Geneva Airport to Sion, then took a bus to Nendaz.
• A six-day ski pass for the 4 Vallees ski area (including Verbier) costs £389
• Travel Switzerland’s Swiss Travel Pass offers unlimited travel on consecutive days across the rail, bus and boat network, plus scenic routes and local trams and buses in around 90 towns and cities. It also includes the Swiss Museum Pass, which grants free entry to 500 museums and exhibitions. Prices start from £229 for a three-day second-class ticket.
• Accommodation in the Mad Retreat is available from £389 a night full board.
• A ride on the Mont 4 Zipline costs £42.50 for adults

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