Revelstoke, Kicking Horse, and Heli-Skiing—How To Ski Canada's Northern Powder Highway
I rolled the dice to risk a week of skiing Alta Ski Area’s reliable snow (last season) for the chance to bag a day of heli-skiing in Golden, and resort skiing at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort and Revelstoke Mountain Resort. I hit the snow jackpot.
Here’s where to ski, sleep, and eat on a weeklong trip along Canada’s Northern Powder Highway.
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Day One—Salt Lake City to Revelstoke
Travel Tips
If I had to do it over again, instead of flying from Salt Lake City to Kelowna via Vancouver, I would book a direct flight from Salt Lake City to Calgary. It would have cut my travel time by a wide margin, though I wouldn’t have had the opportunity to sample Kelowna Airport’s assortment of seating areas for several hours.
The drive is longer from Calgary, but the air route is longer to Kelowna. The benefit of Revelstoke and Kicking Horse being a bit harder to reach is that once you arrive, the lift lines are virtually nonexistent and the powder is plentiful.

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Days Two and Three—Revelstoke Mountain Resort
Revelstoke is situated in southeastern British Columbia on the Columbia River, about 250 miles west of Calgary. It opened for the first time during the 2007-08 season. Although it’s a relatively new resort, it has earned its reputation as one of the best ski resorts in North America. It is a must-visit stop along Canada’s illustrious Powder Highway.
Its five chairlifts provide access to more than 3,000 skiable acres and 75 named runs. Revelstoke’s claim to fame is its 5,620-foot vertical drop, the biggest in North America. While the 9.5-mile Last Spike trail is a fun, cruisy must-do, the goods are found in its legendary back bowls and sidecountry terrain.
I’m fortunate to have friends in Revelstoke who showed me how it’s done. From the top of the Stoke lift, we traversed to Sub-Peak, made our way to Greely Bowl, skied through the aptly named Beauty Glades, and continued to the Ripper chair via the 40 Glades. From there, it was choose-your-own-adventure back to Stoke for more. This terrain flirts with the resort boundary, but is still technically inbounds.
Revelstoke receives an annual average of 250 inches of snow, which is a mix of dense coastal snow and lighter inland powder. As a result, the conifers at the top of the Stoke lift are often completely flocked, creating a dazzling thicket of snow ghosts. The weather from the base of the Stoke chair to the summit couldn’t have been more different. Low visibility and rime gave way to sunny skies and bluebird conditions at the top.
Another unique aspect of Revelstoke is that it has an outdoor art movement (ROAM) with a Masterpiste Gallery you can explore on skis. Twenty-two pieces of artwork have been crafted from recycled skis, boards, and other gear, reinterpreting famous paintings, including the Mona Skisa.

Melissa McGibbon
Revelstoke is on the Ikon Pass, which includes seven days of access to the resort.
From the mountain, you can take the 10-minute drive to the town of Revelstoke to stroll the streets and enjoy the historic charm, vibrant art scene, and lively bars and restaurants.
Where To Stay, Revelstoke
The Sutton Place Hotel is a year-round luxury condominium-style hotel located in the village next to the Revelation Gondola. It’s the only ski-in, ski-out lodging at the resort and offers outdoor heated pools, a hot tub, spa, fitness center and easy access to the rental shops and village dining.
Where To Eat, Revelstoke
- La Petite Baguette: A small village bakery and coffee shop serving breakfast wraps and beans roasted by Rooftop Coffee in Fernie.
- Craft Bierhaus: Offers hearty pub fare and draft beers in a casual communal setting.
- Cantina del Centro: The latest addition to the BC chain of Latin-inspired restaurants with a street food-style menu, lots of tequila and mezcal lists, and bowling lanes.
- Kawakubo Japanese Restaurant: A family-owned Japanese Restaurant that serves traditional sushi, teriyaki, soups, and sakes.

Day Four—Heliskiing in Golden, BC
One of the many good reasons to ski the Canadian Rockies is the favorable exchange rate. U.S. Currency buys about 30% more in Canada, making a day of heli-skiing with CMH significantly more affordable. A one-day trip in the Purcell Mountains near Golden starts at $1,805 Canadian, or about $1,287 U.S., and includes breakfast, lunch, snacks, equipment, avalanche safety gear, and ACMG-, IFMGA-, and CSGA-certified guides.
We began our day of heli-skiing with CMH Purcell at 7 a.m. by getting to know our guides over breakfast and coffee. After our guides helped us sort our gear for the day, we did a mandatory briefing to cover avalanche safety basics. By 9:33 a.m., we were boarding the Bell 212 Twin helicopter for our first run.

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Whether it was luck or a nod from Ullr, the snow god, we had perfect heli-skiing conditions: blue skies, sunshine, and untouched powder. CMH has access to nearly half a million acres of backcountry terrain and more than 250 runs. We skied eight laps down alpine glaciers, open bowls, and gladed forests through light, fluffy hero snow.
Around noon, we stopped for a picnic lunch of hot soup and sandwiches with sweeping views of the Columbia Mountains. After a scenic flight back to the CMH day lodge, we shed our gear and wrapped up with a 4:30 p.m. debrief, beers, and snacks by a crackling fire.
Where To Eat and Drink, Golden
- Whitetooth Brewing Co. – a small craft brewery that pours award-winning beers inspired by the region’s outdoor pursuits.
- Wolf’s Den – a classic log cabin pub serving steaks, burgers (veggie too), poutine and a robust beer and cocktail selection.

Photo: Ian Greenwood
Day Five—Kicking Horse Mountain Resort
After such an extraordinary heli-skiing experience, we didn’t expect another banner day, but we woke to more than a foot of new snow.
Located 4 miles west of Golden and 170 miles west of Calgary, Kicking Horse Mountain Resort is another essential stop on the Powder Highway. Known as the champagne powder capital of Canada, the resort receives nearly 300 inches of annual snowfall and is famous for steep chutes and powder bowls. Sixty percent of its runs are rated advanced or expert. The resort’s five lifts access 3,486 acres of terrain and 120 runs.
Kicking Horse is an Epic Pass partner resort, allowing up to seven days of direct-to-lift skiing.

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Our guides, Toby Barrett and Daniel Soto, took us straight to the best snow on the mountain. If Kicking Horse were in the States, the powder would have been tracked out in under an hour, but its location meant we skied fresh snow all day with little to no lift lines.
We spent the morning lapping the Whitewall Chutes in the Feuz Bowl via the Stairway to Heaven lift. After lunch, we hit the glades in Bowl Over and the south ridge chutes off Terminator Peak. We skied until the lifts stopped spinning and our legs were properly noodled.
Where To Stay, Kicking Horse
The Glacier Mountaineer Lodge is a ski-in, ski-out hotel built next to the gondola with fully equipped kitchens and in-room laundry.
Where To Eat, Kicking Horse
- Eagle’s Eye at Kicking Horse – a bougie mountain top dining experience. At 7,700 feet, it’s Canada’s highest-elevation. Reservations recommended.
- Double Black Coffee Shop – serves locally roasted Kicking Horse Coffee and breakfast staples.
Day Six—Kicking Horse to Calgary
The drive from Kicking Horse to Calgary takes about three hours, so we stopped for lunch in the tiny town of Field, British Columbia, and took the opportunity to stretch our legs. With a population of about 200, it’s worth a short stroll. We had a tasty lunch at Truffle Pigs Bistro and Lodge, before getting back on the road.

Photo: Matthew Bailey/VWPics/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
Day Seven—Calgary to Salt Lake City
It’s a quick two-hour flight from Calgary to Salt Lake City, and I was back on Alta’s slopes by noon.
Related: These 8 Après Ski Meals Are Perfect After a Day on the Slopes

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