Shoulder Season in the Alps

As I hiked above St Gervais near the base of Mont Blanc in France on Thursday 25th September, I immediately got it.

Unlike in the summer months the paths were virtually empty, the views stunning and it felt simply good to be alive and in the mountains outside of the busy main tourist seasons.

I was a happy bunny (but more of bunnies later).

The seasons are changing in the Alps and the current autumnal colours are stunning.

It was the perfect place, and time, for hiking & chilling out.

Plus looking forward with relish to the winter ski season ahead.

It was also time for the first PlanetSKI snow report of the approaching season as there has been a dusting of fresh snow at altitude this week.

And here are a few autumnal views from 2,000m:

I reached the foot of Mont Blanc at 2,000m by the Mont Blanc Tramway that opened in 1909 and starts from St Gervais at 796m.

It is the highest cog railway in France and ascends to 2,115m.

It was originally planned to go to the summit on Mont Blanc, but the project ran out of money, hit engineering challenges and then World War One broke out.

I for one am very glad the project fell by the wayside and there is no railway station on the summit of Mont Blanc at 4, 805m.

Earlier on the hike I stumbled across a small building in the woods at 1,300m.

It was a former donkey shed.

Now it is a mountain treasure and home to the highest micro-distillery in western Europe – the Mont Blanc Distillery.

Step forward the founder, James Abbott, who comes originally from Scotland.

He is what you might call “a mountain character”.

He never meant to live here but passed through a few years back and while waiting for a visa for Canada and decided to stay.

“The people here took me in and made me part of their family,” James said.

“They also noticed that when I turned up at a party, I always bought whisky , not wine.

“‘You should make your own,’ they said”

“That got me thinking  as I’d always dreamed of my own distillery – doesn’t every Scot?”

“Here was my chance.”

James is a professor of Design Engineering and a mountain guide.

He now distills gin, vodka, genepie and, of course, whisky.

The stills are made from Portugese copper.

“Copper is magical and brings out the flavour of the alcohol,” he enthused.

“I love copper.”

While his shelves are made from old skis.

“I like recycling things and putting old unwanted objects to good current use.”

He produces 300 bottles a year and his whisky is in the Speyside taste.

The Mont Blanc Distillery is is a place that can’t be reached with ease in the winter months, but is a fabulous hike in the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn.

“We are now actively promoting the shoulder season in St Gervais and we are already seeing the benefits,” said the head of the town’s tourist office, Didier Josephe, to me.

“There are many options for hiking with less people on the trails and the prices are attractive with hotel prices up to 30% cheaper than in the busy winter and summer months.”

Resorts are now looking away from the traditional winter and summer periods in an attempt to draw in visitors during the low season.

Late September in the Alps is something of a revelation, with an altogether different alpine atmosphere.

Time goes that little bit slower at this time of year and the crowds are pretty much non-existent.

Each Thursday in the village of St Gervais there is a market, with fresh local produce.

It remains open in the shoulder seasons and is about as French as it comes.

Some of the cheeses can’t be more local.

They comes from La Ferme des Roches on the outskirts of St Gervais.

In the winter months I’d be too busy skiing and apres skiing to spend time on a farm visit.

Not so in September.

I was shown around the farm and told about the cheese-making by Flavie Melendez.

It is her pride and joy.

Her cheeses and others are for sale in the farm shop:

• Abondance
• Beaufort
• Emmental de Savoie
• Raclette
• Tomme de Vache
• Boudanne
• Reblochon

Now I couldn’t help noticing some rabbit hutches as I left the farm.

Inside one was 5-year old Calinou.

Lapin is often found on the menus in local restaurants and I am delighted to report that Calinou will not be making an appearance on a plate, but will live out his full 10 rabbit years or more on the farm.

St Gervais  has a local population of 5,600 people, this swells in the winter and summer with 10,000 tourist beds.

A stroll around in the shoulder season is highly recommended as many of the tourist beds are empty and the town is a relaxing affair.

And don’t forget a visit to the local 17th century church – L’Eglise de Saint Gervais.

And so, my first day in St Gervais in the shoulder season of September drew to a close.

Tomorrow we’re  sampling the baths at Le Thermes Saint-Gervais.

I will also be reporting on what the resort offers outside the shoulder seasons of spring and summer – winter, and the skiing to be found in the area.

We are PlanetSKI after all.

Do check back…

• Saint Gervais
• Mont Blanc Tramway

PlanetSKI: Number 1 for digital ski news

Your digital platform for ski news, resort information, travel, equipment rental, sport, money saving deals and everything connected with snowsports – web site, social media & more.

The post Shoulder Season in the Alps appeared first on PlanetSKI.